Legacy brands like Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors returned to the runway at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) amid the luxury sector’s current economic uncertainty, while emerging voices such as Khaite offered a glimpse into the industry’s evolving future. Once dominant in the 2000s, mid-tier American luxury houses like Calvin Klein and Michael Kors now navigate a saturated market and increased competition, using NYFW to assert their cultural cache. Their houses — once symbolic of a decade, a generation and a design ethos — now leverage the platform of New York Fashion Week to reach a new demographic of luxury consumers who are spoilt for choice. Then, there are newer voices such as Khaite, signaling the industry’s next wave of talent. The season placed equal emphasis on the heritage of established houses and the momentum of rising names redefining American fashion. From streamlined minimalism to dramatic outerwear, Spring/Summer 2026 highlighted the breadth of New York’s design identity, reflecting the industry’s evolving landscape.
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Michael Kors’ Showcase Amid Financial Uncertainty
The luxury fashion sector has been experiencing something of a slowdown in recent years and American fashion brands are particularly exposed. For Spring/Summer 2026, Michael Kors’ runway showcase for New York Fashion Week signified how heritage brands are working to reinforce their relevance amid ongoing restructuring with Capri Holdings. For context, in August 2023, Tapestry — the New York-based parent company of Coach — announced plans for a USD 8.5 billion merger with Capri, the owner of founder-led labels including Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, and Versace. The FTC (Federal Trade Commission) has since sued to block the deal in April 2024 — which would put six brands, including Michael Kors and Coach under a single company — arguing that the combined companies would monopolise the leather bags and accessories market, inevitably reducing competition and leaving consumers with fewer affordable options.
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Staged at the Terminal Warehouse in Chelsea against a backdrop of wood panelling, terracotta accents and sculptural cacti that echoed the designer’s own retreat spaces, the collection’s theme of “earthy elegance” was mirrored in the pragmatic yet sensual nature of the pieces. Often in fashion, the word “commercial” is seen as a controversial term, particularly when compared to the daring experimentation of London, the Italian craftsmanship of Milan or the conceptual grandeur of Paris. Yet urban, understated luxury that projected an escapist message of cosmopolitan adventure was exactly what Michael Kors delivered.
The clothes leaned into relaxed sensuality — draped caftans, flowing tunics and airy culottes were crafted to catch the breeze, offset by perforated suede and paillettes veiled in silk voile. A desert-inspired palette of branch, espresso and ecru — layered with soft sunset tones — reinforced the season’s sense of ease and wearability. This is where Michael Kors shines — by creating desirable, wearable pieces that can take the wearer from New York streets to sandy resorts. Accessories carried the same spirit of understated luxury, with oversized clutches, hand-knotted bags and bold leather jewellery finished by Italian artisans.
The collection reinforced Kors’ ability to balance commercial relevance with aspirational design, showing that despite ongoing financial uncertainty for parent company Capri Holdings, the label remains intent on defending its place within the American luxury landscape. The Michael Kors brand and name in itself has been going through challenges, losing some of the relevance and aspirational appeal that it once held in the 2000s. Therefore, this deliberate move toward ease and naturalism reflects how established American houses are positioning themselves in a climate where consumers are drawn to wearability and brand trust. In contrast to the maximalist spectacle of Europe’s fashion capitals, Kors underscored the enduring commercial appeal of pragmatic glamour.
Calvin Klein Collection’s Return to the Runway
Calvin Klein’s return to the runway under creative director Veronica Leoni marked a pivotal moment for the brand, which has been working to reaffirm its position in the American fashion landscape after years of shifting creative direction and questions over relevance. Known globally for its jeans and underwear business, the luxury-end Calvin Klein Collection line has not always enjoyed the same visibility. With Leoni’s sophomore effort, the Spring 2026 show underscored Leoni’s vision of “clothes for life” rooted in minimalism, intimacy and utility.
Staged at the Brant Foundation in Manhattan, the collection built on house codes while presenting an urban wardrobe that balanced spontaneity with craftsmanship. Everyday pieces like the trench coat, jean jacket and pinafore were reworked through tailoring, textural innovation and unexpected detailing, while the brand’s signature underwear was elevated from a foundational sartorial layer into a design motif, appearing in lace accents, slip-inspired dresses and even woven into a tweed piece with the brand’s famed waistband.
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“Calvin Klein has always been a brand that belongs to the people and presents a true lifestyle offering rooted in minimalism, modernity and an American sensibility,” said Veronica Leoni, creative director of Calvin Klein Collection. “With my second Collection I wanted to express this feeling of Calvin Klein as a way of being rather than a way of appearing, capturing its state of mind with a bold and unadorned ardor.” Calvin Klein made a clear attempt to demonstrate that its runway presence still matters at a time when heritage American houses are seeking to stabilise their cultural and commercial influence. This focus on creating wardrobe staples with a raw, pared-back design aesthetic spoke directly to the brand’s strategy of reconnecting with its roots in accessible American style, while also demonstrating the technical know-how needed to compete on an international luxury stage.
Ralph Lauren Return to Roots
Ralph Lauren’s Spring 2026 collection arrived as a study in contrasts, reaffirming the house’s ability to balance heritage codes with modern relevance. Staged at the brand’s Madison Avenue headquarters, the show carried the weight of a “coming home” moment — an intimate setting that underscored the label’s focus on clothes rather than spectacle. At a time when American fashion continues to grapple with economic headwinds and shifting consumer expectations, Ralph Lauren leaned on its greatest strength: a clear identity rooted in an aspirational lifestyle and consistent design language.
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The collection opened with sharp double-breasted blazers softened by languid silk trousers, setting the tone for a dialogue between structure and ease. Slim tuxedo jackets were paired with bias-cut slip dresses in washed satins, while prairie skirts were deconstructed into tiered chiffon layers, cinched at the waist with braided leather belts. A striking palette of black, white and red provided graphic clarity, offset by sun-faded neutrals that nodded to the brand’s equestrian and Western influences. Eveningwear leaned into understated glamour — sheer chiffon gowns embroidered with metallic thread, cutaway dresses in parchment-toned leather and patchwork slip dresses that played on the artisanal spirit of American craft. Where some heritage brands chase reinvention, Ralph Lauren instead doubled down on consistency, demonstrating how an established name can weather economic uncertainty by refining rather than reinventing.
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The collection projected sensuality through precision tailoring and architectural silhouettes, offering a wardrobe that moved fluidly between day and evening. A striking palette of black, white and red provided graphic clarity, while textural treatments introduced depth — from parchment-inspired leathers to artisanal patchwork slip dresses. Accessories reinforced the house’s craftsmanship-driven positioning, with sculpted silver jewellery, woven market satchels and the return of the Ralph Bag in textured leathers anchoring the lineup.
KHAITE Khaite Offers a Breath of Fresh Air
While legacy American brands such as Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren are leveraging their showcase at New York Fashion Week to reaffirm their relevance, Khaite demonstrated how the next generation of designers is pushing the city’s fashion landscape forward. Catherine Holstein’s Spring 2026 collection for Khaite had an undercurrent of grit, blending urban sensibilities with subtle Western references and a careful interplay between structure and fluidity. Signature elements such as asymmetrically twisted leather blazers, askew-hemmed trousers and draped tops injected a sense of experimentation, while classic staples — denim, cashmere, belts and leather accessories — retained clear retail appeal.
Holstein’s designs emphasised the duality of confidence and vulnerability, reflecting a modern consumer mindset that prizes authenticity alongside sophistication. The palette ranged from rich neutrals to deep indigo and black, punctuated with understated textures and hand-stitched details that underscored the brand’s artisanal approach. Footwear, belts and accessories — including collaborations with Oliver Peoples — reinforced the collection’s mix of practicality and elevated design, ensuring that while Khaite pushed creative boundaries, the work remained market-ready.
In a season marked by economic uncertainty and a competitive luxury market, Khaite’s offering highlighted the vitality of New York’s emerging design talent. By marrying risk-taking with wearability, the brand presents a compelling competition to heritage houses, proving that a fresh narrative can coexist with commercial sensibilities. Holstein’s Spring 2026 collection is not only a statement of Khaite’s continued evolution but a clear signal that the next wave of American designers is dynamic and ready to challenge the status quo.
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